tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32387536699608190742024-03-08T00:52:02.966-08:00AquariumUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger98125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-85055846419896665222008-12-15T01:06:00.000-08:002008-12-15T01:07:06.653-08:00IntroductionHave you been thinking of adding a freshwater aquarium to your home? It's a lovely way<br />to enjoy a miniature riverbed from the comforts of your own room. A beautiful aquarium<br />with healthy, energetic fish swimming in clear waters and surrounded by green vegetation<br />is a stunning sight. But before you begin, you need to be armed with all the relevant facts.<br />As a person who has spent more than 20 years in this hobby, I have tried and tested many<br />of the tips, secrets and methods you will find in these pages. Setting up an aquarium is<br />not really a science but needs to be done correctly to give your fish the best possible<br />home. It needs a little bit of common sense and foresight. There are many dos and don'ts<br />that are learnt over a long period of trial and error.<br />This book is written mainly for beginners and I have therefore tried to keep things on a<br />very basic level and use a language that is easy to understand. By following these basic<br />instructions you will be able to successfully set up and maintain a freshwater aquarium<br />with easy or moderately difficult fish species. It is important to keep in mind that<br />different fish has different demands and this book does only give you basic knowledge<br />about aquarium keeping. It is advisable to start out with comparatively easy fish species<br />before you advance to more delicate ones. A lot of fish species have intricate demands<br />and in order to successfully keep such species you will need to research them more<br />thoroughly. There is however a lot of beautiful and interesting fish species to choose<br />among even for the novice aquarist, and by following the instructions in this book you<br />will be capable of successfully keeping a beautiful aquarium filled with thriving<br />vegetation and healthy and colorful fish.<br />How to set up an aquariumUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-23877677690122502702008-12-15T01:05:00.002-08:002008-12-15T01:06:45.109-08:00How to set up an aquariumAn aquarium, to put it simply, is a container that can sustain fish and other aquatic life for<br />a longer period of time. Acquiring a good aquarium for your fish is not a very difficult<br />job as long as you give it some thought before you actually get it. There are some obvious<br />considerations to be taken into account. Setting up and fully stocking a good aquarium<br />will take anywhere between a couple of weeks and a month. The time that you spend with<br />these basic steps will save you a lot of time and trouble at a later stage.<br />There are several things to consider before you purchase an aquarium. How much time<br />you are willing to spend on the aquarium? What kind of aquarium do you want to buy?<br />What is the ideal spot for your aquarium? What kind of fish should you put in your<br />aquarium? How do you keep your fish and their environment healthy in the easiest and<br />quickest way? How much time would it all take to maintain? What should you feed your<br />fish and how much? What should you do when diseases strike? These are just some of the<br />many questions that you need to think about.<br /><br />A good and well stocked aquarium needs quite a bit of equipment. Here is a simple list of<br />the items that you will need for a basic freshwater aquarium:<br />�� An aquarium tank<br />�� An aquarium stand<br />�� A hood<br />�� Lighting equipment<br />�� Air pump<br />�� Heater<br />�� Thermometer<br />�� Filters (internal or external)<br />�� Gravel<br />�� Decorations (optional, but interesting if you have these)<br />�� Maintenance items like scrubber, siphon tube etc.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-24981000299361767162008-12-15T01:05:00.001-08:002008-12-15T01:05:51.016-08:00Choosing a spot for your aquariumFirst, you will need to think about how much free space you have for your aquarium,<br />whether that free space is open to sunlight, and which shape that is best suited for that<br />free space. Never place an aquarium in direct sunlight and keep the aquarium away from<br />any heating or cooling surfaces. Sunlight and heating or cooling surfaces will cause<br />sudden and drastic changes in the temperature within the aquarium, and sunlight will also<br />promote the growth of algae in the water.<br />Keep your aquarium away from machines that give out a lot of sound or cause vibration,<br />like the washing machine, since this will stress the fish. Water accessibility and easy<br />disposal of dirty water and waste are some other important factors to consider while<br />selecting a good spot for your aquarium as you don’t want to run around with buckets of<br />water in your entire house. You will need to clean and change water at least monthly and<br />better once a week. So, choose a place where you can work easily and without any<br />interference. In a family with children, special care has to be taken to keep the aquarium<br />away from areas of frequent activity. You do not want your children to push or fall on the<br />aquarium while they play and injure themselves or break the aquarium glass.<br />Any good home has a certain décor. While choosing a spot for your aquarium, you must<br />consider whether the general décor and lighting in the room will make it an attractive<br />place for the new aquarium. Take the type of biotope you plan to have in your aquarium<br />into consideration when you decide if an aquarium will work with the décor of the chosen<br />spot. Different types of biotopes works with different decors. A saltwater reef aquarium<br />will for instance have a very different look than a well planted South American biotope.<br />You should also consider that an aquarium is very heavy so the chosen spot has to be able<br />to support the weight of the aquarium. Any aquarium over 10 gallons/ 40 L will weigh at<br />least a hundred and fifty pounds / 70 Kg when filled and decorated. The weight comes<br />chiefly from the glass and the water, and decoration such as gravel will further add to this<br />weight. Heavy aquariums will need to be kept on a sturdy stand rather than a shelf or a<br />desk.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-50060073009930171782008-12-15T01:04:00.004-08:002008-12-15T01:05:20.207-08:00Choosing an aquariumHow big should your aquarium be? Aquariums come in many shapes and sizes. It is<br />advisable to choose an aquarium that is at least 10 gallons/ 40 L, since small aquariums<br />are much more difficult to maintain. The waste build up in small aquariums is quick and<br />quite large in comparison with a larger aquarium. A small aquarium will therefore require<br />very frequent water changes. Changes in temperature or water chemistry will also take<br />place more quickly in small aquariums. Rapid changes in the temperature or water<br />chemistry are harmful for fish.<br />I would recommend a 30-gallon/120 L aquarium to novice aquarists, since this will<br />provide enough room for more fish and is easier to maintain as it has enough water<br />volume to dilute fish waste. A larger aquarium will naturally be even easier to maintain,<br />but the benefits of an aquarium that is larger than 30-gallon/120 L is not as significant as<br />the difference between a 30-gallon/120 L aquarium and a smaller one. A 30-gallon/120 L<br />aquarium is large enough to buffer against to rapid changes in water values. 30-<br />gallon/120 L is therefore an ideal beginner size.<br />Fish aquariums come in many shapes ranging from rectangular to hexagonal or even<br />cylindrical. While making your purchase, it is not only the beauty of the piece that<br />counts. Mundane matters like how easy it will be to clean out the aquarium regularly, and<br />how to keep all the nooks and crannies hygienic are important considerations.<br />The height of the aquarium is also a very important aspect. An aquarium that is very deep<br />is complicated to keep for the beginner aquarist. Increased height means greater difficulty<br />when cleaning and your aquarium might therefore always carry some amounts of waste<br />even after a thorough clean up. Poor light penetration is another problem with a deep<br />aquarium. Plants will not thrive in water that has poor light penetration and special<br />lighting is therefore needed in deep planted aquariums.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-26569072995207389992008-12-15T01:04:00.003-08:002008-12-15T01:04:53.729-08:00Acrylic or Glass AquariumGlass aquariums usually cost less and do not get scratches as easily as acrylic aquariums.<br />Glass aquariums are also stronger, as they are bonded together by a silicone sealant. They<br />need support only on the edges, unlike acrylic aquariums. Glass aquariums are very<br />durable, and can last for many years without any problems. Proper lighting will make<br />glass aquariums look almost as clear as acrylic ones. On a negative note can be said that<br />glass aquariums are always much heavier than acrylic.<br />However, if you are looking for irregular shapes, than these are easier to obtain as acrylic<br />aquariums. Acrylic aquariums are much clearer than glass, and have better insulation.<br />This means that you can use a smaller heater in your aquarium to maintain the proper<br />temperature. Acrylic aquariums do however scratch easily and can therefore only be<br />cleaned with specially made soft pads. Removing scratches from acrylic aquariums can<br />be quite a troublesome procedure.<br />The price can also be an important factor when it comes to buying your first aquarium.<br />Glass aquariums are usually the cheaper alternative and there is also a wider selection of<br />second hand glass aquariums than there is of second hand acrylic aquarium since glass<br />aquariums are more durable.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-56094683407577792042008-12-15T01:04:00.001-08:002008-12-15T01:04:23.186-08:00Putting the aquarium in placeWhen you have selected the best aquarium for your needs, it is time to take it home. Here<br />is a checklist that you need to consider:<br /> Look for any scratches on the aquarium before you make<br />the purchase.<br /> Test to see if there are any leaks in the aquarium.<br /> Take care not to load any heavy items inside the aquarium<br />while you carry it home. This may lead to scratching or even<br />breakage.<br />Get a tight fitting hood for the aquarium when you buy it. An open aquarium is never a<br />healthy option. More water will evaporate form an aquarium where the water is open to<br />sunlight, heat etc. Evaporation will lead to the water becoming concentrated with waste<br />and animal- and plant debris, and can also cause water damages and mildew in the room<br />around the aquarium. Contamination from falling waste is another problem. With an open<br />aquarium you will also risk casualties since fish often jump out of an open aquarium, and<br />ending up on the floor is more often than not fatal for the fish unless you immediately<br />spot it and put it back in the aquarium. Thus an aquarium needs a good and sturdy hood.<br />These hoods come in various decorative shapes and colors.<br />There are various accessories that go with your aquarium, other than the hood. An<br />aquarium is a complete set of a number of equipment that works togetherUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-63173602776874347492008-12-15T01:03:00.002-08:002008-12-15T01:04:00.878-08:00LightingThe first equipment that you will come across is probably the lighting for the aquarium.<br />Most hoods come with fluorescent or incandescent lighting. Fluorescent bulbs are a better<br />choice despite the fact that they are a bit more expensive since they have long-term<br />benefits. They burn cooler, thereby not affecting the water temperature at all. Fluorescent<br />bulbs have another benefit as they uses less electricity. Fluorescent bulbs can be<br />purchased in sizes that cover the entire aquarium. This will provide even lighting in all<br />areas of the aquarium. There are a wide variety of fluorescent bulbs that emit different<br />spectrums of light. Some of these will even assist plant growth. Some will lead to an<br />increase in algae growth. Optimal plant growth requires a particular wattage, which can<br />be decided by the size of the aquarium. Usually, 1 gallon of water will require 1.5 watts.An average aquarium requires 8 to 10 hours of light a day. If you use incandescent<br />lighting it is however better to turn on the lighting for a few fixed hours a day. Especially<br />in the case of smaller aquariums, the water will become considerably hotter during the<br />day. And at night, once the light is switched off, the temperature of the water will drop<br />fast.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-54742190499344505692008-12-15T01:03:00.001-08:002008-12-15T01:03:33.249-08:00HeatingA thermostatically controlled water heater will help to maintain a regular water<br />temperature in the aquarium. This is especially good in areas that get very hot during the<br />day and cool off during the nights. The more wattage your heater has, the more heat it<br />will generate. Larger aquariums need more heat than smaller ones as there is more water<br />to heat. An immersible heater hangs into the water while the thermostat remains above<br />water. This makes it easier to take readings. Fully submersible heaters are fixed to the<br />back wall of the aquarium. In this case, one has to be very careful while taking the<br />readings. Carelessness can cause the glass of the heater to crack or even explode.<br />Even in places where the temperature is relatively stable, the use of a heater is still<br />recommended, and required if you keep tropical fish. Only fish that do well in cold water<br />like goldfish should be kept in aquariums without heaters. The heater will help you to<br />control the temperature in which the fish live. Even the hardiest of fishes cannot tolerate<br />steep fluctuations in water temperature and will eventually die if they are submitted to<br />such changes. It is therefore essential to have a thermometer that will read the<br />temperature in the aquarium at all times and a heater that will heat the water when<br />necessary. The crystal typUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-39560975799104722182008-12-15T01:02:00.002-08:002008-12-15T01:03:07.233-08:00FiltrationBasically, there are 3 types of water filtration: mechanical filtration, chemical filtration<br />and biological filtration.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-31712437683704427722008-12-15T01:02:00.001-08:002008-12-15T01:02:37.897-08:00Mechanical filtrationIn mechanical filtration, water is passed through a thin sponge or a screen, which<br />removes the debris. The size of the debris that can be trapped and the time required to<br />filter out the water depends on the quality and the density of the material used, as well as<br />on the power of the pump head. In the course of time, these filters will get clogged and<br />will need to be cleaned. Thus, mechanical filters help to clear out larger particulate matter<br />from the aquarium. Under gravel filters are a type of mechanical filters that uses the<br />aquarium gravel as filter material and trap the debris among the gravelUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-17929741797496903462008-12-15T01:01:00.004-08:002008-12-15T01:02:19.052-08:00Chemical filtrationIn chemical filtration, water is passed through Activated Carbon or a natural mineral<br />called Zeolite. Activated Carbons are used primarily to make water clear and remove<br />potentially harmful chemical substances. It will remove color and odor producing<br />substances. Chemical filtration is most useful for removing particles that have got<br />dissolved in the water and substances that are too small to be removed through<br />mechanical filters. Usually, it helps to clear the yellow color that develops in aquarium<br />water over a period of time. Chemical filtration is also very good to remove medicine<br />lingering in the water after successfully curing a disease in your aquarium.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-40035733823762624062008-12-15T01:01:00.003-08:002008-12-15T01:01:49.561-08:00Biological filtrationBiological filtration uses bacteria that live on gravel, glass surfaces etc to brake down<br />harmful substances in the water. This is the most effective kind of filtration for reducing<br />toxic wastes. Fish normally give out ammonia from their gills and in their feces. This<br />ammonia is toxic for fish. In a natural environment, Ammonia is turned into Nitrite by<br />one type of bacteria, and the Nitrite is then subsequently turned into Nitrate by another<br />type of bacteria. Both Nitrate and Nitrate can harm your fish, but Nitrite is much more<br />damaging than Nitrate. Fish waste products can propagate plant growth in your aquarium,<br />but it will also propagate undesired algae growth.<br />Biological filtration will take place in a healthy aquarium without you having to worry<br />about it, as long as you don’t kill the bacteria by vigorous cleaning or the use of<br />chemicals. One place where such biological filtration takes places is in the filter of your<br />mechanical filter and it is therefore very important not to clean this filter in hot water or<br />using any type of detergent. Clean it cautiously with room temperature water to allow at<br />least some bacteria to survive in the filter material and start the biological filtration again<br />as soon as you put the filter back in the aquarium.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-88400320170451884002008-12-15T01:01:00.001-08:002008-12-15T01:01:27.072-08:00Other types of filtration-<br />There are also some additional kinds of filters. Foam fractionators pass a large stream of<br />bubbles through a column of water. Many substances will stick to the foam that collects<br />at the top, and can thus be removed. Passing ozone and ultraviolet light through aquarium<br />water are also effective to kill bacteria, algae and parasites. But, these are methods that<br />have got different levels of endorsements from aquarists. While some swear by these<br />methods, others say that ozone and ultraviolet rays do nothing for the aquaria. None of<br />these methods can be recommended to the beginner aquarist as they are expensive and<br />there usefulness unverified.<br />For effective filtration, you must take the size of your aquarium into account and use a<br />combination of the filtration methods described above.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-8269627451666409472008-12-15T01:00:00.000-08:002008-12-15T01:01:02.318-08:00Air PumpsAir bubbles that rise to the surface of the aquarium not only help to detoxify and aerate<br />your aquarium, but also add to the beauty of the aquarium. These thousands of bubbles<br />move toxins and waste from the substrate to the surface where they dissipate. They aerate<br />the water, and add to the oxygen levels in the water which prevent low oxygen levels<br />which can be harmful to your fish. If you use under gravel filtration, air pumps will aid<br />these filters to work normally.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-62543699211472427312008-12-15T00:59:00.002-08:002008-12-15T01:00:13.288-08:00DecorationsWhen setting up your aquarium, it is definitely recommended to add decorations. Your<br />fish will give you hours of viewing pleasure, and the more natural their environment<br />look, the greater your pleasure will be since they will display a much wider range of<br />natural behaviors. There are various kinds of suitable and aquarium safe decorations<br />available. Your choice is limited only by the amount of money you are willing to spend<br />and the fish species that you keep.<br />The primary focus when you decorate your aquarium, besides your fish well being, is to<br />keep all unsightly equipment well hidden. It is therefore nice to have some sort of scenery<br />at the back of the aquarium. The décor should be used to hide the equipment that you are<br />using within the aquarium, so that your aquarium takes on a more natural look. You do<br />not want wires and tubes peeking from all corners. There are several commercial<br />backdrops that simulate water, plants etc. They are an excellent buys if you are happy<br />with the look of these. This makes the fish feel more secure and makes your aquarium<br />look better. Many of the shy fish feel 'exposed' from all sides, if there is nothing covering<br />them from behind. Another inexpensive and easy solution is to use colored cardboards as<br />your backdrop. They are not very hard to make, and can be changed as often as you wish.<br />There are also more expensive backgrounds that you put inside the aquarium and that<br />simulate real biotopes in a more realistic way. These are stunning but can unfortunate be<br />rather expensive.<br />Painting the glass with your favorite shade is a widely used option, but this has to be done<br />carefully. Make sure that no paint is spilled into the inside of the aquarium since any<br />traces of paint in the water after the fish come in can be deadly to them. Also, if you do<br />not spread the paint evenly, light coming in from the back will show up the bad patches.<br />Changing the paint once you get tired of it is typically more cumbersome than simply<br />changing a poster backdrop.<br />Substrate refers to the material that you use at the bottom of your aquarium, like sand,<br />pebbles etc. This is not only a form of beautiful aquarium decoration; it will also serve<br />several purposes in your aquarium. There are some aquarists who advocate putting in<br />little or no substrate at all, while other can’t imagine an aquarium without it. The<br />substrate has complex physical, chemical and biological significance and helps keep your<br />aquarium balanced. Some types of substrates will for instance help to buffer your water<br />and maintain the right pH in your aquarium. Substrates help in anchoring plants and<br />decorations to the bottom, aid in the filtration process, and act as catalysts for organicprocesses within the aquarium. There are however a lot of aquatic plants that can grow<br />even without a substrate.<br />It is best to use non-coated natural color gravel as substrate in your first aquarium. Care<br />should be taken while selecting the size of the gravel or pebbles. When under gravel<br />filtration is used, the gravel size should provide for free flow of water. Sand is therefore<br />not a recommended aquarium decoration, especially not for beginners. Sand particles<br />being small, reduces water flow and aeration. Take the kind of aquarium and fish you<br />want to keep into consideration when you choose the gravel for your aquarium. Some<br />gravel effect the water values and may make it impossible to keep the water conditions<br />your intended fish want. An example of this is that gravel containing chalk will raise the<br />pH level, which can be a problem if you want to keep South American fish from acidic<br />waters.<br />As mentioned earlier, using sand at the bottom of your aquarium is generally not<br />recommended. Sand is very tightly packed and can make cleaning up rather tiresome.<br />Sand can also clog the filters, and pack away large amounts of waste and debris. But, if<br />you simply love to see sand in your aquarium, you can of course choose sand and spend a<br />little more time cleaning your aquarium.<br />Silver sand is the most commonly available type of sand. Though it is cheap, it packs<br />more and can therefore be difficult to clean. Aquarium sand is slightly larger than silver<br />sand, but is also about 5 times costlier. Marine sand comes from corals or seashells that<br />have been crushed. These look good, but may alter the pH balance of your aquarium.<br />Beach sand is not a safe option for your tropical aquarium. Beach sand has large deposits<br />of salt that cannot be totally washed off. Beach sand may also have lots of pollutants that<br />cannot be treated properly.<br />Certain substances like seashells, limestone and marbles should not be used in a tropical<br />aquarium if you are a beginner aquarist striving to keep the water chemistry stable. These<br />substances may dissolve slowly into the water thus gradually altering its pH balance.<br />How much substrate should you put in? The amount of substrate you will need depends<br />upon the size of your aquarium and the set up. Planted aquariums will typically need<br />more substrate than ones without plants. Aquariums without vegetation of one kind or<br />another are not as common as planted aquariums, but can function very well and are kept<br />by many aquarist all over the world. A 2-4 inches / 5-10 centimeter thick layer of<br />substrate is recommended for plants, since this will help them to establish their root<br />system. Once you calculate the area of your aquarium, it is easy to calculate the volume<br />of substrate that needs to go in. Simply multiply the area of your aquarium with the<br />desired height for your substrate.<br />Decorating your aquarium beautifully is an essential part of setting it up. Firstly, a<br />decorated aquarium LOOKS great. Secondly, it also helps the fish in various ways. Many<br />species need small nooks and crannies to hide from larger fish and to breed. Some fishare also very territorial. Familiar rock formations, plants etc provide these with<br />boundaries and landmarks which they can use territorial borders.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-54308157962416147602008-12-15T00:59:00.001-08:002008-12-15T00:59:29.374-08:00PlantsA lot of aquarists love the sight of lush vegetation swaying gently in a clear aquarium full<br />of healthy fish. "Natural Aquarium" often refers to an aquarium that has a wellmaintained<br />balance between lush plants and healthy fish, each supplying what the other<br />needs in a good environment. Plants and fish are the two main inhabitants of most<br />aquariums. They coexist so well because each complements the other. Plants give out<br />oxygen during photosynthesis. The oxygen released gets dissolved in the water and is<br />used up by the fish. In turn, plants use up the nitrogenous waste released by the fish for<br />their own growth.<br />In addition to their visual appeal and their capacity to produce oxygen, plants also<br />provide shade, a home, breeding ground and food for some of the fish. Plants are also a<br />nesting place for many microorganisms that are vital for the proper and balanced<br />functioning of an aquarium. As the fish in your aquarium increases, the nitrogenous<br />compounds also increase. Rich vegetation is a safety barrier that will keep toxicity lower.<br />Aquatic plants can be both floating and fixed. It is better to have a fair share of the fixed<br />type in your first aquarium rather than going for the floating variety. While they look<br />very pretty, floating plants can collect debris in and around them, and are more difficult<br />to clean out. If you keep fish species that continuously uproot and disturb the plants,<br />floating vegetation can however be the only feasible option if you want to keep real<br />plants.<br />For decorative purposes alone, many aquarists go in for fake plants. Of course, these<br />plants have numerous advantages. They are easy to clean, do not need any trimming, and<br />will never decay or die. They have a base that will make them stick easily to the bottom<br />of the aquarium and they will look perfect and healthy at all times. Artificial plants can<br />however look very fake, especially if you choose some of the cheaper alternatives. Real<br />plants will also help reduce the growth rate in algae something that plastic plants don’t.<br />Algae can therefore be a large problem in aquariums using plastic plants. In some<br />aquariums it is however impossible to keep real plants, e.g. aquariums with plant eating<br />fish species.<br />Some aquarists use a method where they put in plants – a lot of plants – in the aquarium<br />before they introduce the fish. By using this method, they eliminate the need for normal<br />cycling of the aquarium (cycling is explained a little later in this book). Using this<br />method does however require extensive knowledge about the relevant biology and<br />chemistry and other methods are easier for most beginner aquarists. If you wish to use<br />this method, you must for instance closely monitor the carbon dioxide levels in the<br />aquarium. The level of carbon dioxide in the water should be just right when you put in<br />the fish. It is a good idea to put in algae eaters first, and then gradually add the rest of the<br />fish over a longer period of time.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-18905355276179690072008-12-15T00:58:00.000-08:002008-12-15T00:59:05.945-08:00Water test kit<br />A water test kit is a MUST for any serious aquarist. This will help to keep the pH-value<br />under control. It is also important to test the water for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and<br />hardness. There are numerous test kits available; some more basic than others. Test kits<br />capable of measuring the levels of ammonia, nitrate and nitrite and the pH-value will<br />often be enough for the beginner aquarist.<br />A simple ammonia test kit is usually the first kit purchased by aquarists. This type of test<br />kit will allow you to observe the progress of the nitrogen cycle even though it is only<br />measuring ammonia, not nitrate and nitrite. The break in period, when the fish have been<br />just introduced into the aquarium, is the most dangerous period. At this time, the<br />beneficial bacteria that help in detoxifying natural wastes have not yet fully developed.<br />Biological filters can also stop working later due to many reasons and this will typically<br />cause a peak in the ammonia levels. A peak in the ammonia levels can for instance be<br />caused by a dirty filter filled with debris, having too small a filter for the load of fish in<br />your aquarium, or adding medicines that kills the beneficial bacteria.<br />The nitrite test kit is used for the same purpose as the ammonia test kit in its initial phase<br />- testing the nitrogen cycle. This kit is not as essential to the beginner aquarist as the<br />ammonia test kit. It will however make it easier for you to know what’s going on in your<br />aquarium, and investing in a nitrite test kit can actually save you a lot of money since you<br />will be able to rescue your fish before they all die from nitrite poisoning.<br />The nitrate kit is more important than the nitrite test kit, and should ideally be purchased<br />together with the ammonia before you set up your aquarium. At the end of the nitrogen<br />cycle, nitrate levels peak since nitrate is the end product. Increased levels of nitrate are<br />dangerous for the fish and even established aquariums can have high levels of nitrates.<br />Common indicators of to high nitrate levels are an oily shimmer at the surface of the<br />aquarium and fish chipping for air on the surface. If the nitrate levels are too high, you<br />should immediately do one or several water changes. Increasing the aeration of the water<br />is also beneficial. If the problem persists, you must naturally try to determine the cause<br />behind the high levels of nitrate.<br />The next important kit is the pH test kit. Before you buy fish, you will need to check out<br />the pH of your water. The kind of fish you buy will depend on the pH of the water.<br />Before they reach you, the fish may have been living in water that has a different pH than<br />the pH in your aquarium and you will have to let such fish get time to adapt to the new<br />values. Awareness of this will be helpful when you bring the fish home. Many fish<br />species have special requirements when it comes to pH-values and may not be able to<br />thrive in your tap water even if you give them time to adjust to the new pH-value. You<br />must either change the pH-value in the aquarium to suit the fish or choose fish species<br />that will appreciate the natural pH-value of your tap waterMost kits are very easy to use. They base their results on color changes in the sample of<br />water being tested. Certain additives help to counter specific problems. Frequently, a<br />water change is the most effective way to change the undesirable results in a water test.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-14322250885634002412008-12-15T00:57:00.002-08:002008-12-15T00:58:36.748-08:00Setting up the aquariumBefore you can actually start filling up your aquarium, you will need to give it a thorough<br />clean up. This will help to remove any traces of dirt, dust or contaminants. Using a very<br />small amount of dish washing liquid along with warm water to clean your aquarium is<br />ideal. But, follow this up IMMEDIATELY with a rinse in warm/hot water. This will<br />remove all traces of the detergent from the glass surface. Remember to RINSE<br />THOROUGHLY and than rinse again and again. Even a slight residue will harm your<br />fish.<br />The next step is to wash ALL the things that will go into your aquarium. Begin with the<br />gravel or sand. Wash half a bucket of sand or gravel under running water. Do not use<br />anything other than water and make sure that the bucket that you use has not been used to<br />hold detergent solutions of any kind. Stir the gravel around and keep changing water until<br />it runs clear.<br />Then wash all the décor thoroughly and individually. If you intend to use under gravel<br />filtration, you must wash the plates before adding them to the aquarium. If you are using<br />bogwood to decorate your aquarium, you might have to soak it for a few weeks before<br />you use it. Some bogwoods immediately sink while other has to be water drenched before<br />sinking.<br />Any natural materials found in ponds, like rocks or driftwood, should first be treated<br />before they are used. Soak them first in a mixture of chlorine bleach and water. Rinse in<br />fresh water. Soak them again in fresh water and dry thoroughly. This can prevent<br />undesirable elements like snails, parasites and other malevolent organisms from getting<br />into your aquarium. It his however recommendable that you buy all your decoration at a<br />reputable aquarium shop if this is you first aquarium as it can be hard to know what is<br />suitable for use in your aquarium and what’s not. Some items will emit unsuitable<br />compounds regardless of how many times you soak them in bleach.<br />When you set up the aquarium, make sure that the spot that you have choose have a<br />completely flat floor, and that there is no shaking. Keeping a layer of specialist matting<br />between the aquarium and what it stands on is a good idea. This will help to reduce any<br />unevenness. Before you start filling the aquarium, make sure that you have a water<br />conditioner that removes chlorine. In many countries chlorine is added to tap water in<br />order to kill off micro organisms.<br />The first step while setting up your aquarium is to test for leaks. This may seem to be a<br />waste of time if you feel that you have already checked your aquarium thoroughly. Leaks<br />will however be very annoying and much more difficult to plug after your aquarium isfully functional. So, fill up your aquarium with tap water, and wait for half a day. If there<br />are no stains or indications of leaks, pump the water out, and rinse the aquarium.<br />Then, add the gravel into the aquarium. Underwater gravel filter along with its plates<br />need to be put in before the gravel if you intend to use an under gravel filter. Gravel<br />should be put in slowly to a height of 1-3 inches, depending upon the under gravel<br />filtration, if you are using one. While putting the gravel in, see that you slope the gravel<br />from back to front. The higher area should be towards the back. This will give the front<br />part a better view.<br />Fill half the aquarium with water by pouring the water on to a plate that you put on the<br />bottom of the aquarium to prevent disturbing the gravel. It is also a good idea to direct the<br />water flow to the sides of the aquarium. If this is done slowly and carefully, your<br />aquarium will be clear from the very beginning. In case your aquarium looks a bit cloudy<br />and the particles have moved, allow the water to 'rest' for a day or two until most of the<br />debris has gently subsided to the bottom again.<br />It is now time to install the thermometer, heater and filter. You should however wait until<br />later before you plug them in. At this stage, you should only safely attach the equipment<br />at suitable spots in the aquarium. The heater should be placed in an area where water<br />circulation is the maximum. This will maintain an equal temperature in all parts of your<br />aquarium.<br />You should also put in any decorative material at this stage. Rock formations, plastic<br />plants etc can be put in and arranged more easily now than when the aquarium is<br />completely filled. Remember to fix these materials in the substrate material so that they<br />do not topple or float away later. As mentioned earlier, it is very important to wash each<br />of these items before you place them in the aquarium. Position the decorations in such a<br />way that your tubes and other accessories are well hidden behind them and in such a way<br />that you find it ecstatically pleasing. A lot of fish species will appreciate if you create<br />caves, crevices or other forms of hiding spots where the fish can feel safe.<br />You may want to put in your live plants now too. Care should be taken to keep the plants<br />in areas that get good oxygen supply. Plants should be gently stuck into the substrate. If<br />time is not a factor, it is a good idea to let your water stabilize for a few days before you<br />add natural plants since this will be healthier for the plants. While choosing plants, do not<br />simply go for the prettiest and most exotic plants. Many aquatic plant species will not<br />survive long even in controlled conditions and are only suitable for experts. One such<br />beautiful but sensitive plant is the popular Rotala macranda. Colorful plants are nice to<br />look at, but they will usually require very strong lighting to survive. Plants that are not<br />healthy will add to the debris and waste in your aquarium. Good sturdy plants like Java<br />Moss and Water Sprite are therefore best for a beginner. Both Water Sprite and Java<br />Moss can be left loose on the top, stapled to decorations or plugged to the bottom. One<br />trick that comes in handy is to leave the plants floating in the water for a few days. They<br />will start developing roots in about 3-4 days. Once the roots have come out, it will be<br />easier to attach the plants to the substrate. Place some heavier stones around plants thatotherwise tend to float away. Don’t leave plants floating on the surface to long as they<br />will grow very strangely. When plants are floating, the aquarium lights will light up the<br />side of the plant, and when the plant is later turned vertical and planted it will look very<br />uneven. Growing sideways is unattractive in most plants.<br />Once the plants are in place and you checked that you didn’t forget to add anything else<br />it’s time to fill the aquarium full with water. Once you have filled your aquarium to its<br />optimum capacity, you will need to start the heater. Allow the heater to stay in water for<br />half an hour before you turn it on. Before you plug it on, make sure that the thermometer<br />is placed where it is easy to read. Read all the instructions in your operator's manual since<br />these can vary between different heaters. Once you turn the heater on, the water<br />temperature and the heater needs to be closely monitored for a day.<br />Sufficient and proper aeration comes next. When using air tubing for decoration, the risk<br />of water back siphoning into the tubes are high, especially if they are placed lower than<br />the water in the aquarium. So, the air pump should preferably be placed higher than the<br />water level. Anti-siphon valves are also easily available. If you are using more than one<br />air stone, a gang valve that has multiple outlets is very handy. The air pump should have<br />enough power to supply air to the multiple items.<br />Next, you can turn on the power filtration or mechanical filtration, if you are using such<br />appliances. After reading the instructions properly, set up the filter so that the flow of<br />water is concentrated to the center of the aquarium. After plugging it in, allow it to run<br />for a day. Never shut it off except for shorter periods for maintenance. The motor should<br />not run dry and will get damaged if it does. Turning on and turning off the filter<br />constantly will cause unnecessary wear and tear to the filter and more importantly will<br />cause toxins to build in the filter which are released into the water when the filter are<br />started again. It will also damage the biological filtration in the aquarium. In short, you<br />should never turn off the filter ones it’s on, except when you clean it.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-31656521424201667222008-12-15T00:57:00.001-08:002008-12-15T00:57:47.753-08:00Water chemistrySince fish spend their entire life in water, water is the most important thing about an<br />aquarium. Understanding water and its constituents will greatly help to maintain a good<br />aquarium. There are basically three very important aspects to the water in your aquarium:<br />the temperature, the pH and the levels of constituents in the water.<br />Most tropical fish flourish and thrive in warmer waters. Though these fish are resilient<br />enough to withstand a wide range of temperatures, it is seen that warmer temperatures are<br />best for tropical fish. As discussed earlier, having thermostatically controlled heaters are<br />a must if keeping tropical fish. An easy to use thermometer is also very handy. Together,<br />these will help you to keep a constant check on the water temperature. The water<br />temperature will also affect a wide range of biological and chemical processes in your<br />aquarium.<br />The pH-value is a way of measuring the alkalinity or acidity of a solution. The pH ranges<br />from 0-14, where 14 is the most alkaline, and 0 is the most acidic. Fresh water fish canlive in a wide range of pH but the optimum pH values are for many popular beginner<br />species a slightly acidic to a neutral value, 6.5-7.5.<br />Water hardness is another factor of importance. Water hardness refers to the amount of<br />dissolved minerals in your water, especially calcium and magnesium. In most cases, you<br />should be able to get by without manipulating the hardness of the water. Excessively soft<br />water can cause problems in your tropical aquarium. Adding crushed coral to extra soft<br />water will increase its hardness. But beware as the pH of the water will change too.<br />Dissolved oxygen, Carbon dioxide, Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates are some of the<br />important elements present in your water. They are decisive factors in the health of the<br />aquatic life within your aquarium.<br />The life in the aquarium depends on dissolved oxygen in the water. Gaseous oxygen is<br />absorbed by water. Turbulence at the surface of the water increases the absorption of<br />oxygen. Plants within the aquarium give off oxygen during photosynthesis, but this<br />oxygen is also used up quickly. Just like fish and other animals in the aquarium, plants<br />need oxygen for respiration and will consume a part of the oxygen that they produce.<br />Since all the organisms in the aquarium – including microorganisms, invertebrates and<br />fish – use up the dissolved oxygen quickly it is necessary to keep your aquarium well<br />aerated. Plants alone will not always provide enough oxygen especially, not in aquariums<br />with large fish populations. Unhealthy and decaying plants will even increase the demand<br />for oxygen in the aquarium. A simple and basic aeration or filtration system is usually<br />more than enough to give plenty of oxygen to your aquarium. Regular water changes,<br />vacuuming off fish wastes and removing any rotting plant material will also help to<br />increase the oxygen levels.<br />Ammonia is produced by the fish metabolism and excreted via the gills in and the fish<br />feces. Ammonia can also be produced in your aquarium when plant material is broken<br />down. Ammonia is highly toxic and will kill fish if the levels get to high. Nitrites are<br />formed in the aquarium when the Ammonia gets broken down by bacteria. Nitrites are<br />also dangerous to fish and unhealthy in too large quantities. Exposure to too much Nitrite<br />can for instance make the fish anemic and eventually kill it.<br />Nitrates are another nitrogen-compound and Nitrate is produces when Nitrite is broken<br />down by another type of bacteria. High levels of Nitrates are also toxic for fish, but most<br />fish species are more resilient towards Nitrate than towards Ammonia and Nitrite. You<br />should strive to keep the levels of Ammonia and Nitrite at zero, but low levels of Nitrates<br />will always be present in the aquarium and your task will be to keep Nitrate under control<br />rather then to eliminate it completely. Taking some easy precautions can do this. Never<br />overstock your aquarium. Never overfeed your fish. Never lay off changing water<br />partially. Never allow debris and fish waste to collect in your aquarium.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-88197008214860716892008-12-15T00:56:00.002-08:002008-12-15T00:57:13.625-08:00Conditioning waterYou should NEVER add the fish immediately after filling your aquarium. Allow the<br />water time to stabilize. The water will have some amounts of toxins in it from chemical<br />treatments etc and this can be very harmful for the fish. Thus the water needs to be<br />neutralized first. Any dissolved gases in the water will escape in a few days, and the pH<br />of the water will also stabilize.<br />Tap water is not the natural habitat of fish. Tap water usually contains high amounts of<br />chlorine and other disinfectants. These will harm the fish, the plants and other<br />microorganisms that need to grow in the aquarium. There are three basic methods to<br />dechlorinate water. Aeration of water will diffuse chlorine into the air. This can be<br />achieved by filtering the water for 24 hours. Using activated carbons is another way of<br />getting rid of the chlorine. Lastly, adding sodium thiosulfate to water instantly inactivates<br />chlorine. Sodium thiosulfate also helps in getting rid of traces of ammonia. When adding<br />the water preparation chemical it is important that you follow the dosing instructions<br />carefully.<br />Adding aquarium salt or kosher salt is also recommended if you are going to keep fish<br />that tolerate salt as it reduce the risk for disease in your aquarium. Some tropical fish do<br />not tolerate salt in the water and you should therefore research if the types of fish you<br />intend to keep in your aquarium tolerate salt or not.<br />If your fish species tolerate salt, 1 tablespoon of salt for every 5 gallons/ 20 L of water is<br />usually a good rule of thumb. Some species will however only tolerate lower<br />concentrations of salt. The most important thing to keep in mind while adding salt is the<br />concentration of salt in water. As evaporation takes place, the salt in the water remains<br />the same. Salt does not evaporate. So, while changing water, only the salt that has been<br />removed should be replaced.<br />One more reason to research the species you intend to buy is to help you decide on the<br />pH value of your water. Neutral pH is 7.0. Usually, tropical fish can survive in a wide<br />range of pH. A pH of 6.4 to 7.9 is an acceptable range for a wide variety of fish. Knowing<br />the pH value of your tap water is a definite advantage. Your geographical location<br />influences the pH value of the water.<br />Before attempting to change the pH, there are certain things to be considered. Even if you<br />have researched the optimum pH for your favorite fish, you need to assess if you really<br />have to change the existing pH for the fish to survive and thrive. Mostly, the fish you<br />have are bought from an aquarium. So, they are used to a pH level that might be different<br />from the pH levels that are natural for them. A STABLE pH is more important than<br />reaching exact values. Changing the pH values will also change the toxicity of nitrite and<br />ammonia.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-55093799938115768422008-12-15T00:56:00.001-08:002008-12-15T00:56:37.565-08:00Cycling<br />There is one more step that needs to be completed before you can add the fish and this<br />step probably the most crucial of them all. The water in which the fish live is a whole<br />new ecosystem in itself. There are other microorganisms living in this water beside the<br />fish, algae and plants. All the living organisms in your aquarium will produce waste that<br />can become toxic. Fortunately, there is also a class of organisms that work in tandem to<br />decompose this waste and to make it beneficial for the habitat. Understanding this basic<br />but sometimes overlooked fact and doing your best to aid this process will make your<br />aquarium a definite success.<br />Why probe into the details when you know that the waste that will be produced will also<br />be efficiently decomposed? Well, since the ecosystem in an aquarium is an artificial one<br />that you have created it can sometimes require your assistance. An aquarium that is just a<br />few weeks or days old is at its most fragile. The water is new; microorganisms in the<br />water may be beneficial or toxic. The key here is to minimize the undesirable organisms<br />while boosting the colony of desirable and helpful bacteria. This is where the<br />NITROGEN CYCLE comes in.<br />Nitrogen based substances are the most frequent byproducts of decomposition. The<br />Nitrogen cycle refers to the process in which this decomposition takes place. Nitrogenous<br />waste products in your aquarium will first break down into ammonia. Ammonia can be<br />very toxic for fish. If ammonia can be detected by your test-kit, then the levels are too<br />high for your fish.<br />Nitrifying bacteria are the microscopic organisms that aid the nitrogen cycle and convert<br />harmful ammonia to a more harmless form - nitrate. In nature, there are vast colonies of<br />these bacteria, but when you first set up your aquarium this type of bacteria is only<br />minimal in your water. In the first few weeks, you have to induce this bacterial colony to<br />multiply and reach an optimum level. A good nitrifying bacterial colony goes a long way<br />in ensuring the health of your aquarium. The initial period when this bacterium is being<br />coaxed to multiply is known as cycling the aquarium.<br />Certain conditions are optimal for the growth of the nitrifying bacteria. They grow well in<br />areas that have a rich supply of oxygen. Lesser sunlight means less heat and less light.<br />These are ideal for the growth of bacteria. Portions of the aquarium that are not disturbed<br />by currents, and are relatively unmoved are also good breeding grounds for the nitrifying<br />bacteria. This is however only the first half of the nitrogen cycle.<br />Slowly, as nitrites get converted, nitrates start building up. The second half of the<br />nitrogen cycle converts the nitrites into nitrates which are relatively harmless through a<br />process called denitrifying. This is then converted into nitrogen gas, which escapes into<br />the air. It is however impossible to get rid of all the fish waste by simply letting nitrogen<br />gas evaporate. If you do not perform frequent water changes, the levels of nitrate will<br />sooner or later become high enough to seriously harm your fish and eventually kill it.<br />Your aquarium can never be a perfectly balanced ecosystem. You are for instance adding<br />new organic compounds to the system every time you feed your fish.The nitrogen cycle begins when the aquarium is provided with a little bit of ammonia.<br />One great way to do this is to add natural plants. The leaves falling off from these plants<br />supply the first doses of nitrogen. Other methods include adding a pinch of flake food,<br />adding a sliver of fish or shrimp to the water. Using some gravel or water from another<br />aquarium is also a good way to kick starting the cycle since gravel or water from an<br />established aquarium will be filled with the two necessary types of bacteria. Care must be<br />taken to ensure that there is no infection in the water. Commercial products containing<br />nitrifying bacteria are available in many pet shops and can be used to speed up the<br />process.<br />Another very popular means of starting off the cycling process is using 'cycling fish'.<br />Adding no more than one or two hardy and inexpensive fish, e.g. Zebra Danios, to the<br />aquarium will introduce the necessary nitrites into the water. Do not over-feed the fish,<br />because this will lead to the production of more ammonia than the yet fragile balance can<br />handle. Using feeder fish as cycling fish is generally not recommend, because feeder fish<br />is sometimes unhealthy and may introduce diseases into your aquarium.<br />Use your test kit to follow the ups and downs of the nitrogen cycle. In the cycle,<br />remember that the nitrite levels will first go up and then fall to zero. This process may<br />take 2-6 weeks. The speed in which the cycle completes will depend upon the<br />temperature in your aquarium. It is however usually ok to start adding fish after 1-2<br />weeks since the bacteria colonies then has grow to a large enough size to support fish as<br />long as the fish are sparsely fed. You should never add fish if the ammonia or nitrates<br />level still are high in the aquarium. The ammonia levels should be non-detectable before<br />adding fish.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-83986130772268137792008-12-15T00:55:00.000-08:002008-12-15T00:56:01.147-08:00Adding FishNow, we come to the most exciting and much awaited part of the hobby. The type of fish<br />you choose is a purely personal decision, but for a beginner a few hardy fish species is<br />the best choice to start with. Fish that are beautiful and interesting, but still easy to care<br />for and feed is an excellent choice for the beginner. DO NOT purchase too much fish at<br />once and put them into the water. Introducing a lot of fish will strain the habitat and<br />topple the balance of the environment within the aquarium. As you know, when you put<br />in new fish, you are introducing a whole batch of ammonia and bacteria into the water. If<br />this is not done slowly and in stages, the concentration of these undesirable elements will<br />increase beyond the tolerance level of your fish and your fish might die.<br />You also have to be aware of the species of fish and their compatibility with other fish<br />before you decide what types of fish you should include. Different species of fish will<br />flourish in different conditions. Having a wide variety of colorful fish is visually very<br />appealing, but some combinations are not to be recommended. Keeping a large number of<br />fish with similar demands and behavior will lead to an aquarium where the fish thrive in<br />their new home. Select fish that are used to the kind of water that you can provideThere are many ways to add fish into your water. While bringing the fish home, care<br />should be taken to only have a few fish in each bag. Too many fish in a bag will cause<br />the ammonia level in the water to rise and the oxygen level to drop. Since you will be<br />bringing the fish in a smaller bag, sharp temperature fluctuations in this water are quite<br />possible and you should avoid exposing the bag to heat or cold. It is necessary to plan<br />your trip to the pet shop in advance. This will reduce the stress and shock that your new<br />fish will be subjected to. Try to bring the fish home as quickly as possible, and in a large<br />bag.<br />As soon as you get home, float the bag in your aquarium for a minimum of 15 minutes.<br />This will allow the temperature within the bag to equalize with the temperature in the<br />aquarium. You should thereafter add about a cup of water from your aquarium into the<br />bag and wait another 15 minutes. Repeat this last procedure 4-5 times before releasing the<br />fish. NEVER put the water that you brought from the store in your aquarium. It may<br />contain diseases, parasites or other unwanted passengers such as undesirable bacteria and<br />snails.<br />There are certain things you have to avoid while transferring the fish into your aquarium.<br />Avoid using your hands while transferring fish. Net them out gently into the aquarium.<br />Avoid putting in all the fish at once. Transfer the fish one by one, and leave a gap of 15 to<br />20 minutes before adding each fish. If you already have some fish in the aquarium, feed<br />these well before you start the transfer. This will keep your new batch safe from the<br />curiosity of the existing fish. It is also a good idea to turn off the light in the aquarium<br />while adding new fish. The existing fish in the aquarium will not see the new ones arrive,<br />and will therefore leave them alone. If you keep very aggressive and territorial species,<br />you will have to use other methods when you introduce new fish, but such species are not<br />recommended for beginners and thus beyond the scope of this e-book.<br />How many fish do you begin with and how many can you add at once? The rule of thumb<br />regarding the number of fish is: "One inch of fish per gallon of water", but this rule is<br />very general and frequently unadvisable to follow. While stocking your aquarium, you<br />have to take the needs of your particular fish into consideration.<br /> Territorial fish require more space and boundaries.<br /> Room for swimming and other activities like schooling or<br />other common behavior patterns in your particular fish species.<br /> Taller fish needs more vertical space. While they swim,<br />they need enough room above and below their fins.<br />Aggression due to lack of space is one of the common reasons why many fish die after a<br />few days in captivity. If you put a fast swimming schooling fish in a small aquarium, it<br />will never be able to swim freely. Some fishes become aggressive when they are packed<br />together into a small space. Putting more fish in a smaller aquarium will also increase the<br />debris in your aquarium, thus poisoning the entire habitat.Fish compatibility is a matter of great importance while selecting fish. Not all types of<br />fish mingle well. Being able to predict what species will do well together comes from<br />research or experience.<br />Every school of fish has a certain natural pecking order. The dominant male, followed by<br />the dominant female typically take up the center of this order. When you add a new fish,<br />this pecking order completely changes. The fish that are already in the aquarium have<br />established behavior patterns and the new member has to adapt and find a niche for itself.<br />Meanwhile, if it is a perceived threat to the order, the others in the school may harm it.<br />This is a bigger problem for some fish than for others but it is best to avoid it for all<br />species. You should therefore always try to buy the entire school you want at once.<br />You should also try to avoid unnecessary aggression and territorial disputes. For instance,<br />putting two male Gouramis into the same small aquarium will give rise to unnecessary<br />competition among them. Adding a second male to an aquarium that already contains a<br />male can have even worse consequences since the first male has already claimed the<br />aquarium as his territory. The established male will attack the new comer viciously if it<br />enters his swimming space. The newcomer has no place to swim or hide. Things might<br />get worse, and you may lose either or both the fish. All this can be avoided if you do a<br />little bit of research before you stock your aquarium. Try to buy all the fish you want of<br />one species at once.<br />Fish, like any other pet, need care and devotion. You need to keep the conditions in your<br />aquarium just right for the fish to thrive and be happy. Healthy fish can be spotted easily.<br />They swim briskly, eat well and generally look sturdy. Every aquarist dreams of having a<br />well stocked aquarium and a flourishing ecosystem. Some care taken at the early stages<br />will help you to achieve this easily.<br />Doing the following things regularly will help you to keep your aquarium healthy and<br />happy:<br /> The aquarium has to be checked daily to make sure that<br />there are no dead fish lying around. Remove any dead fish<br />immediately. Remember, dead fish will spread infection and is a<br />breeding ground for bacteria. Dead plant material is less dangerous<br />than dead fish, but will also affect the water quality and should be<br />removed as soon as you notice it.<br /> On a weekly basis, clean out the plants and decorations in<br />your aquarium. Trim the plants and cut away any decaying parts.<br />Scrape away the algae forming inside the glass.<br /> Always make sure that your filters are working smoothly.<br /> Changing the water partially every 1-2 weeks will also<br />greatly reduce the debris and algae collection in the water. This can<br />be done by gently siphoning the water from near the gravel. This is<br />where the most debris collects. Check for symptoms of stress in your fish. Once found, the<br />conditions that are causing the stress must be determined and<br />changed as soon as possibleUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-85406912583256395382008-12-15T00:53:00.002-08:002008-12-15T00:54:08.058-08:00Stress in your aquariumFish are subjected to stress due to various reasons. Stress weakens the fish and causes the<br />fish’s immunity to be greatly reduced, thereby making it susceptible to diseases. Stress<br />also leads to decrease in feeding. Breeding is almost non-existent in fish that show<br />symptoms of stress. Eventually, over stressed fish become ill and die. Thus it is best to<br />know the reasons of stress in your aquarium.<br />Stress is frequently species dependent. Some species thrive in an environment that may<br />weaken others. For example, if you have hard tap water, you need to purchase fish that<br />thrive in such conditions or alter the water conditions before you introduce your fish to<br />the aquarium. An unsuitable or unstable pH-value is also a common cause for stress in<br />aquariums. Some fish are very sensitive to changes in pH, while others are not too<br />susceptible to this. Always research your particular fish species in order to find out their<br />preferred pH-value and the span which they will tolerate. Find out the pH-value of the<br />water that the fish is currently living in before you purchase them and introduce them to<br />their new home, since fish unlike rapid changes.<br />As mentioned earlier in this book, increased levels of ammonia, nitrite and nitrates also<br />lead to stress and you will need a test kit in order to monitor these levels. We have<br />already discussed the different actions that will help you to keep these levels down, such<br />as using several types of filtration, performing frequent water changes, choosing an<br />aquarium that is large enough and never over-feeding your fish.<br />Salt can also lead to stress. Some fish species have zero tolerance for salt. As a general<br />rule, fish that have no scales or very small scales will not tolerate salt water. Add salt to<br />your water only if ALL the fish species in it can tolerate salt. Some fish species will<br />become more prone to illness in an aquarium with no salt, even though they are not<br />marine species. Fish species living in brackish waters will usually stay healthier in a<br />slightly brackish aquarium, even if they are capable of tolerating freshwater.<br />An unsuitable water temperature or temperature fluctuations can easily lead to stress in an<br />aquarium. Some fish are comfortable in cooler temperatures, while others require tropical<br />temperatures. Care must be taken while mixing up species, so that they all have a general<br />tolerance for the same temperature. The goldfish is one example of a fish capable of<br />surviving in cool temperatures, while a lot of the common beginner species – Guppy,<br />Molly, Tetra etc – prefer much warmer temperatures. A daily thermometer reading will<br />keep the temperature stable and well under control.<br />Physical space or the lack thereof is another factor that leads to stress. Even normally<br />peaceful fish species can become extremely territorial when they have to fight for space.<br />Also, putting in different varieties of territorial fish with similar behaviors is like askingfor trouble in a small aquarium. Introducing competition in your aquarium by adding fish<br />that cannot cohabit will lead to stress; and frequently death due to direct injuries or due to<br />illnesses brought on by the stress. Also keep in mind that the onset of the breeding period<br />triggers a number of changes in the fish's behavioral pattern. Some fish chase stakes out<br />breeding territories at this time and chase away any intruders.<br />What are the symptoms of stress in fish? From the very beginning, you will need to<br />observe the patterns of behavior of each species in your aquarium. After a few days, you<br />will notice that each species has a behavior particular to it. Some fish keep swimming<br />briskly, while others are happy staying almost stationery. Some like to be on the surface,<br />while others linger near the bottom. Deviation from their normal behavior is the first<br />indication of stress. Some fish start hovering near the surface al the time, indicating poor<br />supply of oxygen. A stress fish can also stay away from its usual haunts and keeps itself<br />hidden. Sometimes fish shows nicks or spots on their body that are not healing quickly.<br />Prevention is definitely a better approach than waiting until the stress begin to manifest<br />and then trying to cure the symptoms. So, being aware of the 'character' of your species<br />before you bring them home and introduce them to your aquarium will help greatly in<br />warding off stress. As soon as you notice any symptom, make sure to explore the cause<br />and remove it at your earliest. Fish that falls sick and eventually dies harms not only<br />itself, but also the entire aquarium. Infections can spread quickly and you may find your<br />fish succumbing fast to these.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-86611353054881415832008-12-15T00:53:00.001-08:002008-12-15T00:53:34.045-08:00Water problems and their solutionsOne of the most common problems in an aquarium is that the water becomes smelly,<br />foamy or cloudy. Each of these conditions adds to stress among fish. This is an unhealthy<br />sign.<br />While setting up your aquarium, water may become cloudy when you disturb the gravel<br />or sand at the bottom of the aquarium. As mentioned earlier, this can be avoided if water<br />is put in properly. This problem will sort itself out in a day or two. If your water becomes<br />cloudy or foamy after introducing the fish, bacteria is the most common cause.<br />When an aquarium is not cleaned thoroughly or regularly enough, fish waste and other<br />debris start collecting in the water. Even plants in your aquarium need to be trimmed<br />regularly and their dead parts have to be removed to keep the aquarium balanced.<br />Foamy or smelly water indicates that there is too much debris in your aquarium.<br />Changing small amounts of water every day will help to resolve the problem. Weekly<br />water exchanges will then ensure that debris levels remain low. This will also help to<br />control the levels of soluble waste in your water. Dissolved wastes in the water will thus<br />get removed and this will cause the bacteria to starve. Care must be taken not to change<br />too much water each time as this may harm the fish.Excessive amounts of fish food can also make the water foamy. There is no need to give<br />extra food to your fish, and any extra traces left at the top should be removed<br />immediately. Check regularly whether your filters are working properly and clean the<br />mechanical filter from debris and excess food.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3238753669960819074.post-41862904340562913612008-12-15T00:52:00.000-08:002008-12-15T00:53:03.551-08:00Tropical fish aquarium problemsWhen you decide to keep a tropical fish aquarium, there are certain things that you<br />absolutely must NOT do. Even a very dedicated aquarist can encounter a wide range of<br />problems, especially during the start up period or when new fish is added that disrupt the<br />balance. Being aware of some of the most common pitfalls will help you to avoid these<br />mistakes and loss of precious life.<br />One common mistake that many beginners make is assuming that a small aquarium is<br />easier to care for than a larger one. The beginner should always go for a larger aquarium,<br />and keep small aquariums later when he or she is more experienced. The reasons for this<br />are quite obvious. Even though your aquarium is small, you will still have to pack in<br />quite a number of things. Most beginner aquarists want to keep at least half a dozen fish,<br />if not more. Even when keeping just one single fish, such as a goldfish in a goldfish bowl,<br />a small aquarium gets filled up with debris surprisingly fast and fish easily use up the<br />oxygen in small aquariums. Larger aquariums have larger volumes of water. This means<br />more oxygen for the fish, more space, and comparatively less dissolved wastes. It is<br />possible to get by with partial water changes less frequently when you use a larger<br />aquarium. A larger aquarium will be less prone to rapid changes in temperature and water<br />chemistry than a small aquarium, since there will be more water to preserve the<br />temperature and dilute any pollutants. You also have to be extra careful when you select<br />the kind of fish that will go into a small aquarium. Some fish need to school and can<br />thrive only in groups. Some fish are territorial by nature and will harm any other fish that<br />comes into its territory. Mixing different species, especially in a small space requires a lot<br />of know-how.<br />Adding too many fish too soon is another common mistake made by beginners. Always<br />keep the Nitrogen Cycle in mind when you set up your aquarium. The microorganisms<br />living in your water need time to develop. Only a rich culture of beneficial bacteria will<br />keep your aquarium healthy for a long period of time. Once the cycling process is over, it<br />is important to add only one or two fishes to start with and then to add all the fish you<br />indeed to keep of a certain species at the same time. Always give the fish time to adjust<br />slowly to their new environment, using the introduction method described earlier in this<br />book.<br />Over feeding is another trait of the over zealous beginner. Never over feed your fish. If<br />you feed too much, the uneaten food gets deposited in the crannies of the aquarium or just<br />float in the water. It will pollute the water and also consume oxygen when being<br />decomposed. Uneaten food can therefore make the water cloudy and also lead to anincrease in the bacterial population of your water. The amount of food you give your fish<br />should be roughly dependent on their body weight. Usually, one or two feedings per day<br />is enough. Feed your fish five or six days a week. This changes only if you are rearing<br />young stocks. In this case you will need to give the fish small meals more frequently.<br />A lot of the problems that you can encounter can be solved by frequent water changes. It<br />is important to find a good balance, since large water changes can be just as harmful as<br />too small or too few water changes. Ideally, change about 15% of your water at least once<br />a week. Do not change water fully, since this will throw away too much of the beneficial<br />bacteria and cause your fish large amounts of stress due to changes in water chemistry<br />and sometimes also temperature. It is therefore much better to change a small percentage<br />of your water as frequently as possible. Changing 15% of the water once a week as is a<br />good rule of thumb, but smaller and more frequent water changes are just as beneficial.<br />Another common beginner mistake is to choose unhealthy fish, since it can be hard for<br />the novice fish keeper to distinguish normal fish behavior from warning signs. Fish that<br />do not look very healthy at the store is a definite NO. Fish that float near the top, gasping<br />for breath are not a good buy. Fish that shows spots, sores or nicks should not be taken<br />home. If you find that your new fish topple over or cannot keep their balance in their new<br />home, this is due to shock from being moved and can kill even healthy fish. Make sure to<br />always introduce your fish slowly to avoid shock.<br />A pet shop that forces their fish to cohabit with dead fish or sick fish should also be<br />avoided. Though the fish you plan to buy look very brisk and healthy, they may be silent<br />carriers the infection. Getting this fish into your aquarium will transmit the infection and<br />can have disastrous consequences. Always buy fish from a reputable pet store that<br />remove sick fish to special quarantine aquariums.<br />Fish that are transparent with neon colors running along the sides should also be avoided.<br />These are not natural fish. The neon colors are injected into the fish, and will fade after<br />some time. The dyes injected into these fish make them sick at a later stage. It also a very<br />inhuman process in which the due is applied.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0